You need to get a wheel bearing that has an ID (Inside diameter) of the bolt that threads to the bottom of the dolly. The thread is 3/8-inch. In metric land Australia, that works out to be about 10mm. I got a bearing that is 10mm*30mm*9mm. I paid 33 for 6. However, another guy managed to get them for 1.67$ apiece. So its just a matter of calling around and getting the right price for it.

This is necessary as the alignment of the wheel tracks may need to be changed if the curvature of the flexible rubber track changes. This way, it is automatically realigned.

Step 1: -Take the channel Aluminum and mark a hole that is just larger than the inside track on the wheel bearing. Now use the smallest drill piece you have and drill holes on the periphery of the hole that you have marked. Then take a metal punch and hammer out the Al to get a hole. Take a file and smooth out the holes.

Step 2:- Now use JB Weld on the outer track on the wheel bearing. Place the bearings on both ends of the channel Al. Take care (and this is very important) that the inside track does not touch any part of the channel Al and that the JB Weld only attaches the outer track to the channel Al. This way the outer track of the bearing is couple to the channel Al. We will later attach the wheel track to the channel Al. The bolt will go through the center. Keep the bolt in the middle after applying JB Weld to keep the bearings aligned.

Step 3:- Once it is cured (about 4-6 hours for JB Weld, use a Nyloc nut to tighten the bolt against the inner track of the bearing. The screw on another Nyloc nut until it just touch the first nut. Then screw on the open end of the bolt to the nut inside the dolly until it is snug. Now screw the second Nyloc nut to the dolly so that it tightens against the dolly.

Materials :-

The Davis & Sanford dolly. Also available in Australia from Soldsmart here – http://www.soldsmart.com.au/l3.aspx?goods=TP0150 . 3x 3-inch 3/8-inch bolts with hex head. 6x Nyloc nuts. 6x 3/8-inch or 10mm bearings. Channel Al and angle Al for attaching the wheels to the dolly. JB Weld.

You also need 2 wrenches for fitting the nyloc nuts and a drill with the required drill bits.

2 Responses to “DIY – Panning Track wheels for the flexible dolly”

1. Craiger says:

   January 25, 2010 at 1:15 pm

   Great DIY! This is like the Spider Dolly that costs like $2,000 USD! How much did this build cost, not including the track?
2. admin says:

   January 28, 2010 at 3:15 pm

   Hi Craig. The total cost excluding the track is about 100/- 6 bearings, nuts and bolts and the D&S dolly.